Sunday, June 23, 2013

Onward we trek

So we are done with Dingle and like Elfis we have left.
But before we go I made a nice bouquet for our hostess at Towerview B&B
We had a very tight schedule to make it to the ferry across towards the Cliffs of Mohr. I drove like Lewis Hamilton to get to there. As you can see, we just made it. They closed the rear gate about 30 seconds after I drove on.
See! That's my little grey car right at the back.
So we made it across the bay and were on our way to the Cliffs of Mohr. This is the most popular tourist attraction in Ireland.






The cliffs are quite spectacular. It's a long way down to the water.
And again, I was hiking. I know. Right!!
Off to Galway we go. But to get there we drove through the Burren.
The Burren is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt's pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura.
In the middle of the Burren is this portal tomb. It is a 4000 year old grave chamber.

The burren ends very suddenly. Notice the barren rock and immediately it becomes rich green pasture land.

Join us for a Dingle pub crawl

In the last few years, Dingle has become a mecca for musicians from all over. They flock here to play in the numerous pubs. The music generally starts at 9:00 pm or 9:30 pm and is supposed to finish with the last drinks served at 11:30 pm. But we were told that if the bar pulls the window shades and people behave themselves , the local Garda (police) will look the other way.
On our first night in Dingle were in for a real treat. We were able to get tickets for a concert at Siopa Ceoil an Daingin, the Dingle music and coffee shop. It featured two members of the band Solas, one of the top international traditional Irish music bands. They invited another friend to join them.
Here is a small sample of their music.
Yes, I know, amateur cinematography. I'm not Spielberg!! The ticket included a nice Irish coffee as well.
The concert was early, so we were able to go to a pub for more music and a pint. So we moseyed on down to the Marina Inn for some Irish ballads. The band sang all the popular tunes - "Whiskey in the Jar", "Galway Girl", "Wild Colonial Boy", "Black Velvet Band" and many more.

Here are some other pubs we visited.
John Bennys Inn
bar at John Bennys Inn


 An Droicead Beag had traditional Irish music and Irish dancers. I think they were clogging, similar to our square dancing.
Dick Mack's is like the old time Irish pubs - a place of business during the day and a place to meet and drink after hours. Dick Mack's is a leather shop during the day. They do not serve food or have entertainment. Just a place for friends to meet.


Murphy's Pub - outside and in


 I think the most fun was the Dingle Pub. The musician here was the only one we saw that took requests. Even one naughty song. But when he came to the "questionable" words he stopped singing and let the patrons fill in. (He said that he liked his job and wanted to keep it.) And he was a real character. When we arrived the only place to sit was a table for 6. A little while later, a family came in looking lost, so we invited them to sit with us. They were from Chicago so we chatted about the NHL playoffs. (I'm cheering for Chicago in this round). And for being neighborly, they bought Maryann & I a pint each.

And the best toilet signs in all of Dingle were at the Dingle Pub



Saturday, June 22, 2013

Hanging out around Dingle

We are about half way through our trip so this is a down day. Just relaxing and nothing really planned.
Remember that picture of Fungie the Dolphin from the other day. Apparently, he hangs out near the mouth of the bay. So we decided to take a walk out there to see him. He is supposed to be near this lighthouse. Boat tours go out here to see him.

I know! There's Bob "hiking" again. We went all the way out there and did not see Fungie. We were told that if we see tourist boats, we would likely see Fungie. Well, there were no tourist boats when we got out to the point. I guess he was on his break - back in the cove chillin' with a cup of tea and a smoke. Oh, well!!
On the way back Little Red Dog explored this ruin site. Unfortunately, we could not find anything in our guide books and there was no plaque or marker at the site. So we are not sure of the significance.
On our way back into town we passed a bakery and thought we might stop for a cup of tea and a cupcake. Not until to late did we discover they were knitted!!
So we went back to our B&B to rest up for a full evening of pub crawling. I heard a noise out side so looked out and what did I see?
Some farmers sheering sheep in the field right across the road from our B&B. So we went over for a closer look. They had a gas generator to run the electric sheers. We were surprised at how docile the sheep were being thrown around like that. It only took this guy about 2 minutes to sheer 1 sheep. He said the wool used to be the most valuable part of the sheep. But now they don't even use wool in carpets much. So he told us to enjoy a meal of mutton to support the sheep industry.

Friday, June 21, 2013

Dingle - here we come!!

On our way to Dingle we took the scenic Connor Pass route. Along the way we happened upon this cool mountain lake. We hiked half way up the mountain to the galacial lake. I know what you're thinking - "Bob Patterson hiking? On vacation?? In Ireland??? Shouldn't he be in a pub drinking somewhere?"
When we were hiking back down we met a group of boys - probably around 16 or 17 years old - heading up the mountain with towels. I asked if they were going swimming. They answered "Yes". Now, this was a glacial lake. Don't think there would be much action with the ladies that night!!!
So, we arrived in Dingle, checked in to our B&B, then went for a walk. Little Red Dog made friends with Dingles mascot, Fungie the Dolphin. He frolics in the Dingle Harbor. 
Next day we went for a drive around the Dingle Peninsula and stopped at one of the many beaches. Of course, I had to stick my toe in the water. Now I have had my foot in both sides of the Atlantic Ocean. In the Canadian Maritimes and in Europe.
On our drive around the peninsula some of the sights we saw:
 A potato famine era farm. Boy, times were rough then. Very stark conditions.
These bee hive were quite plentiful. They are believed to house animals or perhaps farm implements.
A patchwork of fields on the side of the mountains.
The beach where part of "Ryan's Daughter" was filmed with Robert Mitchum & Sarah Miles.
The sleeping giant - a distant relative of the one near Thunder Bay, Ontario
The Gallrus Oratory. The smallest church in Ireland. It is believed to have been built between the 6th century and 9th century.
Another church ruin. What is interesting about this one is the stone pillar in the foreground. Notice the hole near the top. This is where people would come to "seal a deal" centuries ago. Standing on the graves of their ancestors and in front of the house of God, they'd "swear to God" by touching thumbs through the stone. You can use the stone to renew your marriage vows. (Which, of course, we did!!)









Thursday, June 20, 2013

Kinsale - pretty little town

Kinsale is a pretty little fishing village at the southern end of Ireland. There is plenty of history here. Lots of fighting between the English, Spanish & Irish a few hundred years ago. Spain wanted to establish a military base here so they could attack England. Our walking tour guide said it was the UK version of the Cuban missle crisis.
Today, it is a peaceful little village. Ireland holds a "Tidy Town" competition every year. Kinsale is determined to win. The chairperson of the "Tidy Town" committee owns a paint & decorating store. She is offering anyone 15% off paint so they can paint their buildings. Look at the colorful streets.


The streets are very narrow here, like in other Irish towns. This street in front of our B & B is supposed to be a two way street. There is a church on the right side. People park half on the side walk Sunday mornings and still expect two way traffic to get through.
 We went for a walk and saw stone walls like this. Interesting that they stacked the rocks vertically instead of horizontally. And the face of the wall is flat. Incredible workmanship.


Little Red Dog visited "The Armada Bar" When we walked in at 9:30pm there were only about half a dozen locals. We felt a little uncomfortable, but sat down anyway. Dan the Man was playing 60 & 70's pop tunes. Around 10:00 the place started filling up with locals. And then things really started hopping. I made a balloon rose for the barmaid. She was absolutely thrilled.I've seen people happy about receiving a balloon, but not like this. An older lady wanted to pay me to make something for Granddaughter. I made something and said no need to pay for it. Next thing I know, two pints show up at the table. One for me and one for Maryann. I had some fun for the next hour or so making balloons for the patrons. And getting another free pint.
The next day the Little Red Dog visited his Irish cousin the Grey Hound for a pint.
On our last evening in Kinsale we went on a ghost walking tour. Lots of history about the mysterious goings on in town. And we did get to see a ghost!

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Hoping for "The Gift of Gab"

As we were leaving Kinsale we passed grocery store and had to stop so Maryann (and the Little Red Dog) could get their fix. I was getting woried about Maryann. Almost a week without her Timmies!!!
We were driving near Blarney Castle so, of course the Little Red Dog had to stop. Maryann & I didn't really care.
I had to help Little Red Dog because its a long way up and a little treacherous. If you look way up, see the opening in the middle at the top? That's where the silly Blarney Stone is.

The castle is in very good shape for being a 540 years old. Doesn't look a day over 535!!
The gardens are grand. There is a nice pathway through the property. We stumbled upon this massive fuchsia tree.
Well, off to Dingle, the most westernly point of Ireland.


Sunday, June 16, 2013

Little Red Dog visits another old pile of rocks

The day started off nice and sunny so we left Kilkenny in the taillights and headed for Cashel to see Cormac Cathedral. It was built on top of the Rock of Cashel on the plains of Tipperary as a strong hold for King Cormac McCarthy and the kings of Munster.

St Patrick baptized King Aengus here in 450 AD. It is the only known church in Ireland that is partially built in the Roman style. Parts of it are also Christian and Gothic style. This is another example of the round tower that is almost exclusively Irish. The tower was there first and the cathedral was built around it.

 Notice the scaffolding in the middle. This is for the restoration of this building. The walls are covered in mildew. They are trying to dry it out so the mildew can be removed. They expect it will take 1 or 2 more years. They are also using UV light inside the chapel to kill the growths.
Here is one of the many stone carving from inside the church.
And a Celtic Cross marker outside.

Queen Elizabeth II visited The Rock on her historic 4 day visit to Ireland in 2011. She signed the guest book simply "Elizabeth". Who does she think she is? Beyonce??



After traipsing around the rock on a very blustery day a hardy bowl of fish chowder was a welcome treat. Real fish chowder, with spoon sized chunks of salmon, white fish and mussels in the shell, accompanied by thick slices of fresh homemade brown bread.

Come back tomorrow to read about the further adventures of Little Red Dog.