Thursday, June 27, 2013

Reliving history

Today we headed to Derry (or Londonderry, if you are Unionist).
We passed by Crough Patrick. Apparently, St Patrick spent the 40 days of Lent on this mountain. It is from here that he rang his bell and drove the snakes out of Ireland. Every year, on the last Sunday in July, 30,000 pilgrims climb to the summit in his honor. But the trail is open all year long for anyone who wants to hike up. We did not!! (You see, we were pressed for time! Ya, that's it. pressed for time)
Across the road from Crough Patrick is a memorial to the people who died at sea trying to escape the potato famine in the late 1840's. This bronze ship sculpture is one of the most powerful famine memorials in Ireland, with silent skeletons swirling around the ship's masts.
We popped into Donegal for lunch. It has a nice downtown area. We found a carvery near the main  square. It is like cafeteria style serving. The offered a full meal for 10 Euro's. I had a massive piece of roast beef (very tender), mashed potatoes, a roast potato, vegetables & brown bread. All for 10 Euro. What a deal!! I'm sure this would be a $24.00 meal in Ontario.
Derry/Londonderry has a split personality. The British, who want to keep Northern Ireland as part of the United Kingdom, call it Londonderry. The Nationalists who want to be part of the Republic of Ireland and a distinct nation, call it Derry.
There is a lot of history here. From 400 years ago when some young apprentices protested during the Industrial Revolution to more current times when the IRA protested against British rule. I remember hearing about the troubles when I was in high school, but was to busy with other more interesting things to pay much attention. It was interesting to walk the streets and put everything in perspective.
Old downtown Derry is surrounded by a 30' wide wall. We walked the top of the wall and learned about the history from a few hundred years ago.
Derry is also where the IRA had many of their confrontations with Britain. I won't go deep into the history. (You can check Wikipedia) On Sunday Jan 30, 1972 the Northern Ireland Civil Rights Association held a peaceful but illegal march for Civil Right. An elite parachute regiment was ordered to stop the march. They opened fire on the unarmed marchers, killing 13 and wounding 15 more. One of the wounded later died. The tragic clash is known as "Bloody Sunday".
In 2010, Britain finally apologized to the families of the victims, thus starting the peace process.
A peace bridge over the River Foyle now joins the mainly Protestant east Derry with the mostly Catholic west side. There is also a metal sculpture entitled "Hands Across the Divide" shows two figures extending their hands toward each other. It is inspired by the hope of peace and reconciliation in Northern Ireland. The hands don't quite touch, indicating that the peace process is not yet complete.
"Bloody Sunday" took place in the Bogside area of Derry. The events are memorialized in 12 murals painted on the ends of residential flats. A very powerful statement.
"Bloody Sunday" - A small group of men carry a body from the ill-fated march.
"The Death of Innocence" - A young girl stands in front of bomb wreckage. The girl, Annette McGavigan, 14, was the 100th victim of the Troubles. She was caught in the crossfire in 1971.
Note the butterfly in the upper left corner. It was left as an empty silhouette until the artists felt confident that the peace process had succeeded. It was colored in 2006.
"Bloody Sunday Commemoration" - This shows the 14 victims surrounded by 14 oak leaves, the symbol of Derry, to signify the 14 wounded.
After a very moving walk through the murals, we lightened up with a quick trip to Boston "where everybody knows my name"

Above the door of our hostel is a quote from Mark Twain " Travel is fatal to hatred, bigotry and prejudice."

And the sun goes down on another day of our vacation.




No comments: